Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.