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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.